Here is one of the best-kept open secrets in Amsterdam, and it costs exactly zero euros: the ferries behind Centraal Station are completely free, all day, every day, no ticket, no tap, no GVB card, nothing. You simply walk on with your bike, your scooter, your dog, or just your fabulous self, and the city carries you across the water for free. After fourteen years I still feel like I'm getting away with something every single time.

Where to catch them

Walk straight through Centraal Station to the back, the side facing the water (the IJ), and you'll find the ferry docks. There are several lines, but the two you want are:

  • The Buiksloterweg ferry, a quick two-minute hop to central Amsterdam Noord. It runs constantly, basically the second one leaves another arrives.
  • The NDSM ferry, a longer and far more scenic ride, about fifteen minutes, gliding past houseboats, cranes, and the working waterfront out to the NDSM Wharf.

Just walk on. No barriers, no fuss. It is the most civilized thing this city does, and that is saying something.

What to do in Amsterdam Noord

Noord used to be the part of town nobody crossed for. Now it's where the cool kids live, and for good reason. Step off the Buiksloterweg ferry and you're moments from:

  • The A'DAM Lookout, a tower with a panoramic rooftop bar and "Over the Edge," a swing that dangles you out over the city. Terrifying, exhilarating, deeply worth it.
  • The EYE Film Museum, that gorgeous swooping white building you can see from the station. Brilliant cinema, exhibitions, and a cafe with one of the best water views in town.
  • Leafy neighborhoods, cozy cafes, and waterside terraces that feel a world away from the tourist crush across the IJ.

What to do at the NDSM Wharf

The NDSM ferry is the real adventure. This former shipyard has been reborn as Amsterdam's creative playground, raw, industrial, covered in some of the best street art in Europe, and gloriously uncrowded. Out here you'll find:

  • Massive murals and street art, including some of the largest in the country, splashed across old warehouses and cranes.
  • Pllek and other waterfront hangouts, built from shipping containers, with sand, sunsets, and a beer in hand.
  • Flea markets and festivals, including the enormous IJ-Hallen market on certain weekends, a treasure hunter's paradise.
  • Quirky bars, studios, and that famous crane hotel, where you can sleep in a converted harbor crane if your budget is feeling brave.

My honest advice

Take the long NDSM ferry on a sunny afternoon, stand at the railing, and let the breeze and the skyline do their thing. It is, no exaggeration, one of the most beautiful free experiences in any major city I've ever lived in. Bring a jacket, the wind on the IJ has opinions. Grab a drink at Pllek, watch the sun go down over the water, then ferry back as the city lights come up.

Most tourists never cross the water, which is precisely why you should. The ferries are free, the views are priceless, and Noord is where Amsterdam keeps its cool. Go get on a boat. The city is practically begging you to.