A few steps from the shopping crowds of the Kalverstraat and the Spui, a plain doorway opens into a lawn surrounded by old houses and two churches. The noise disappears almost immediately. This is the Begijnhof, one of the oldest inner courtyards in Amsterdam and one of the best places in the city to understand how religion, tolerance, and housing shaped Amsterdam.

Who were the beguines?

Beguines were Catholic laywomen who lived together in a religious community without taking permanent vows as nuns. They could own property, and they were free to leave and marry. They supported themselves through work such as teaching, nursing, and textile making, and they lived in houses grouped around an enclosed courtyard — a begijnhof — that could be closed at night.

Beguinages existed across the Low Countries. Amsterdam's was founded in the fourteenth century on land that was then at the edge of the town.

Surviving the Alteration of 1578

When Amsterdam became officially Protestant in 1578, most Catholic institutions in the city were taken over. The Begijnhof was an exception. Because the houses belonged to the beguines themselves, they were allowed to stay.

They lost their church, however. The medieval chapel in the centre of the courtyard was closed, and in 1607 it was given to the English and Scottish Presbyterian community in the city. It is still in use as the English Reformed Church.

The beguines continued to worship privately. In 1671 they built a new chapel inside two of the houses opposite — a hidden church, invisible from the courtyard as a place of worship. The Begijnhofkapel is still an active Catholic chapel. Our guide to Amsterdam's hidden churches explains why so many of these clandestine churches were built.

The last beguine died in 1971. The houses are still homes, mostly for single women, managed as a residential community.

Het Houten Huis: one of the last wooden houses

At number 34 stands Het Houten Huis (the Wooden House), usually dated to the early sixteenth century. After major fires in the fifteenth century, the city restricted the building of wooden houses, and most were replaced in brick. Het Houten Huis is one of only two wooden house fronts left in central Amsterdam; the other is In 't Aepjen on the Zeedijk.

Look at the wall next to it: a collection of salvaged gable stones has been set into the brickwork. Our guide to reading canal house gables explains what gable stones were for.

What to look for

  • The main entrance on the Spui side, a small arched gateway that is easy to walk past.
  • The English Reformed Church, with its simple tower and memorials to the English-speaking community.
  • The Begijnhofkapel, with an ordinary house front concealing a chapel inside.
  • Het Houten Huis and the gable stone wall beside it.
  • The house fronts themselves, from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, which make the courtyard a compact lesson in Amsterdam architecture.

How to visit respectfully

The Begijnhof is a private residential courtyard that allows visitors, not a museum. Residents ask for quiet, and access can be limited, so check current opening times before you go.

  • Keep your voice low and stay on the paths.
  • Do not photograph residents or through windows.
  • Tour groups should explain the history outside, then walk through quietly — this is how we run our visits.

Combining the Begijnhof with the rest of the centre

The Begijnhof sits between Dam Square and the Spui, which makes it an easy stop on any walk through the historic centre. A natural route runs from Dam Square and the Royal Palace along the Kalverstraat or Rokin to the Begijnhof, then out onto the Spui with its bookshops and cafés, and on to the Nine Streets.

It is also one of the best places to go when it rains, as we note in our rainy day Amsterdam itinerary.

The Begijnhof is a stop on our three-hour Golden Age City Center tour, where your host explains the courtyard's history before you step inside.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Begijnhof free to visit?

The courtyard has generally been free to enter during its opening hours. Check current hours and any visitor restrictions before you go, as they can change.

Are there still beguines in the Begijnhof?

No. The last beguine died in 1971. The houses are still lived in, mostly by single women.

Can you go inside the churches?

Both the English Reformed Church and the Begijnhofkapel are active places of worship. They are often open to visitors outside services, but opening times vary.

Sources and further reading

For the bigger picture, read our Amsterdam history guide.